24. - 25.10.2017 | Windhoek, Camelthorne Kalahari Lodge
After arriving at the Hosea Kutako airport at 11:10 am I leave the airport with the rental car and drive to the tar road B6 where I drive towards Windhoek. On the way out I leave Windhoek and take the B1, on which I drive direction Rehoboth to Kalkrand. Then I turn onto the C21 and drive about 40 km towards Hoachanas and turn right onto the D1268. After about 20 km I reach the entrance to the lodge - another 5 km to the accommodation. The car gets stuck after a few kilometers in the sand - bogged down and the first lesson of my journey. After the rescue by a summoned guide and the sighting of the first oryx antelope - which watches us from a safe distance, short onward journey and arrival. Dinner and program discussion by the open fire. Finally Africa - Kalahari.
Distance about 310 km: about 65 km gravel road, the rest is tar road
26.10.2017 | CAMELTHORNE KALAHARI LODGE - THE SAN
Early departure for the Bushmen - 06:00 am Started on a trip with a small group of the San to the Kalahari.
The natives of Namibia and of all southern Africa are the San, who are also called Bushmen. The San do not form a unified people, but are split into several groups with different languages. For phoneticians, the languages and dialects of the Bushmen are considered the most complicated in the world. Typical are click and snapping sounds. Traditionally, the San lived in extended families of ten to thirty members. They had no permanent residence and no property. They did not build anything and did not keep livestock, but carried all their belongings as they moved on. Everyone had only as much as he could eat and carry. The community survived through solidarity. No one was allowed to starve when others had an abundance of food. They had no leaders; Personal decisions were made personally. As for the group, it was clarified in the group.
In the afternoon first Game Drive into the Kalahari - We see the first Zebras, Wilderbeasts, Springboks, Giraffes. The landscape a thorns bush savanna in red light.
The Kalahari is a thorn-bush savannah, partly dry savanna, but is sometimes referred to as a desert due to the prevailing finely powdered red sand. It extends on both sides of the southern tropic from the province of North Cape in South Africa through Namibia and Botswana through to Angola and Zambia over an area of more than 1.2 million km. Most of the Kalahari is mainly by specially adapted dunes. and desert grasses, but also of tall acacia trees, which, with their long roots, reach the low-lying, but abundant water veins and stabilize the dunes with their vegetation.
27.10.2017 | CAMELTHORNE KALAHARI LODGE, WOLWEDANS DUNE CAMP
Early departure to Wolwedans Dune Camp. - drive through the dust and heat. Continue in the direction of the red dunes!
Drive on the D1268 until I reach the C20. Right here and hit the B1. Keep left and pass Mariental towards Maltahöhe, where I will refuel. Then I cross Maltahöhe and turn left at the exit to the C14 towards Helmeringhausen. Then on the C19 - after about 60 km below the Tsaris Pass, I turn onto the D827 and follow this until the confluence with the C27, where I turn right. After 15 km I reach the entrance to Wolwedans on the left side. 20 km to the reception. Here I am brought in open four-wheel drive vehicle to my accommodation in the dunes.
Distance about 345 km: about 140 km tar road, the rest is gravel road
The driveway to the lodge is fantastic - in the distance the red dunes - past oryx antelopes. Surreal landscapes - one of the most beautiful places of my journey - Wolvedans.
Dinner - early bedtime. Enjoy the silence and anticipation of tomorrow.
28.10.2017 | NAMIB NATURE RESERVATION - WOLwEDANS DUNE CAMP, KULALA DESERT LODGE
The Namibrand Nature Reserve or Namibrand Nature Reserve is one of the largest private nature reserves in southern Africa, covering 202,000 hectares. It lies about 60km south of the Sesriem Canyon and stretches along the eastern border of the Namib Naukluft Park and Sossusvlei. The indescribable charm of NamibRand arises from the clash of different desert landscapes. Large sand and gravel surfaces are lined with impressive mountain ranges, red grassy dunes, foothills of the nearby Sossusvlei drag like a belt across the reserve.
Getting up with the sunrise - coffee is ready. Fantastic view of the mountain range from the bed. Bino our guide picks us up and goes exploring the countryside. Again and again the circles are to be found - until today there is no natural explanation for the circle formations in the middle of the landscape. The San tell the following story. The circles are tombs of your ancestors, who perform the last dance in the circle at night on the spot and say goodbye ... The biodiversity is amazingly versatile. Oryx antelope, springbok, ostrich, zebra, hartebeest.
Depart for the nearby Kulala Desert Lodge in the afternoon.
I leave Wolwedans and drive back to the C27. Here I turn left and drive towards Sesriem / Sossusvlei. At the junction of the D845 I turn left again and continue for about 12 km on the C27, until I see the entrance to the Kulala Desert Reserve on the left.
Distance about 95 km: everything gravel road
A magnificent view of the famous dunes, the surrounding mountains and vast plains. The camp consists of 23 thatched "Kulalas" with private bathrooms and tent walls. My tent is spacious and very comfortable. A first quick impression on an evening cruise. The wind has scared the animals - sunset on the dead tree.
29.10.2017 |SOSSUSVLEI
05:15 departure for Sossisvlei. In the background the hot air balloons ascend into the sky. Dunes up to a height of 250m - named after numbers, the attractions have their own names like Big Mama, Big Daddy, or Crazy Dune.
The best way to experience Sossusvlei in all its beauty is to start early in the morning, as the dunes are the most spectacular at sunrise, when their ever-changing play of colors contrasts with the sharp, dark shadows. Here is also the Deadvlei - the dead trees surrounded by the red dunes. Protected in the valley of the Big Daddy.
Return to lunch - my cold is not getting better. In the afternoon visit the Sesriem Canyon. An entertaining excursion to a low lying river bed with a height of up to 30m. Highlight the sighting of a little owl. Following sundowner with gin and tonic.
30.10.2017 | KULALA DESERT LODGE, SWAKOPSMUND
Early getting up before sunrise - unfortunately it is very windy and the planned hot air balloon ride will not take place. I eat breakfast extensively and set off in the direction of the Swakopsmund.
From the lodge I turn left onto the C27 in the direction of Sesriem. From Sesriem I drive on the D826 for about 12 km on the C19 and turn left towards Solitaire. After about 70 km I reach the place and take a short break. Here I try the "famous" apple pie in the middle of nowhere. A few car wrecks are beautiful motives. Through the desert to the Atlantic! Continue onto the C14 to Walvis Bay. Take the B2 towards Swakopsmund.
Distance about 350 km: 45 km tarred road, the rest is gravel road.
31.10.2017 | WALVIS BAY - CATAMARAN CHARTER TOUR
08:30 am on catamaran "Silver Sand" from Walvis Bay Boat tour to the oyster beds, seal sighting and search for dolphins. Pelicans accompany us! Suddenly emerging from the water 4 dolphins. Afternoon sightseeing in Swakopsmund.
01.11.2017 | SWAKOPSMUND, DAMARALAND CAMP - CAPE CROSS
On to the Damaraland! Start 08:00 clock I drive over Cape Cross and the Brand Mountain to Damaraland Camp.
Outside of Swakopsmund take the C34 towards Hentiesbaai. About 5 km after Hentiesbaai I turn right onto the C35 in the direction of Uis and from there in the direction of Khorixas. Then on the D2612 - turn left and about 70 km to the junction with the C39. Again left and about 25Km to the sign of the Damaraland Camps.
On the way, I plan a detour to Cape Cross. Cape Cross is about 50 km north of Hentiesbaai. Here is one of the largest seal colonies in Namibia. Between 100,000 and 250,000 seals are found at the Kreuzkap. Barking screams echo through the air ... loud grunts and strong smell over the coast.
A huge thunderstorm surprised me on the journey - thunder and lightning over the land. In the background the Brandberg. The Brandberg is the highest mountain in Namibia 2573m high of brown-red granite.
Distance about 365 km: everything salt or gravel road.
Arrival at the lodge in the late afternoon. Breathtaking and incredibly beautiful. On a short trip in the evening, I visit a nearby farm of a displaced family from South Africa. Dinner at 20:00 in the big gathering of all guests and anticipation of the desert elephants!
Damaraland-Camp.
02.11.2017 | DESERT ELEPHANTS
05:00 clock start and preparation for the search for the elephant. Due to the thunderstorm, it will not be easy, as the animals retire to the mountains. The day starts like in the Paradis - breakfast in the open air at sunrise with an overwhelming view in the middle of a Martian landscape. After the stalking and we will find quickly. Near the riverbed is a group of desert elephants - with a small elephant cub. The river has water for the first time in 6 years. Desert elephants are considerably smaller than their savanna species. Due to their smaller body weight, they need less water to survive. On the way home we meet another elephant mother with calf. The afternoon and after returning to the lodge I climb a nearby small hill. Beautiful view of the countryside. The dinner spent with wine and singing. Tomorrow we head for Etosha!
03.11.2017 | DAMARALAND CAMP, ONGAVA GAME RESERVE
Departure for Etosha National Park. A simple journey. I drive over Khorixas, past the petrified forest on the C39 towards Outjo. Shortly before Outjo I turn left at the junction onto the C38 towards Okaukuejo and continue to the Etosha Gate. Here I turn left and follow the signs for about 20 km to the camp.
Distance about 355 km: 230 km paved road, the rest gravel road.
Hidden in the foothills of a dolomite hill is the Ongava Tented Camp. The Ongava Game Reserve was formed in 1991, when the owners of 4 unproductive cattle ranches converted it into a highly productive nature reserve, which today is home to countless wildlife. The camp is one of Namibia's best places for wildlife viewing. Located directly on a waterhole are the accommodations. When I arrive, giraffes and antelopes are already waiting for me, and I am drinking a cold iced tea. In the afternoon, the first game drive is planned.
During the trip I am accompanied by Robert J. Ross, a professional wildlife photographer. An honor to travel and learn with him. We watch two giraffes nervously looking around and finally looking up the space. Two lionesses are nearby. A little later we meet a Black Rhino mother with a small calf on the side. Again, we meet the two lionesses again - a breathtaking sneaking and frightening that goes on for over 20 minutes and finally ends with the flight of the rhinos. Rob and I are happy about the moment and the watching. On the way home we meet a large group of White Rhinos on the horizon. A thunderstorm pulls up. Fast home ride.
The dinner in the company of Rob Ross, his mother, the Lodgebetreiber Robert and Aleksandra from Norway. She made a film about her walk with a group of Bushmen through the Namib - the Model and the bushmen. Aleks has founded his own organization: nanofasa. A great evening by the open fire!
04.11.2017 | ETOSHA NATIONALPARK
Little sleep - since two o'clock a storm rages above the camp. A thunder and flashes of light, as I have not experienced. From about 4 o'clock silence - a distant roar wakes me from half asleep. It gets closer and gets louder - until it finally roars loudly in my ears in front of the tent. A large group of lions is visiting. I'm watching from the window, the wild bustle right outside my door. From 07:00 onwards to hunt the lion group. Unfortunately without success. We drive to Etosha - however, due to the rain at night, the chance of sighting is very low. In the late afternoon we drive back to the camp. From Etosha I have not taken much - giraffes, zebras, antelopes and a short appearance of two lions, which disappear quickly in the high bush. In the early evening Rob and I go again. Again comes the wind and the rain - At dusk we meet a small group of young lions. We also observe a large group of White Rhinos for a while - then we return to the camp. Dinner in the small circle of the two Robs, Aleks and the mum of Robert. Alkesandra tells a lot about the Bushmen and imitates their language. Rob Ross gives me one of his books, which I store carefully in my luggage. It means to say goodbye for the time being.
05.11.2017 | ONGAVA GAME RESERVE, OKONJIMA PLAINS LODGE
Today last day at Ongava Game Reserve - in the early morning hours we leave and say goodbye. On the tour we meet a blackjack jackal, as well as a lion family - take us a lot of time and watch the two parents with two small ones. Another highlight on the last tour is an elephant bull emerging from the bush.
Depart for Okonjuma Lodge early in the afternoon. I drive on the C34 to Outjo, where I refuel and make a short stopover. Then I take the C38 to Otjiwarongo, from there I turn right and drive about 48 km in the direction of Okahandja, at the signpost Okomnjima I turn right again and drive about 25 km to my accommodation. The lodge is home to the Africat Foundation, which has been dedicated to the protection of large cats and especially of cheetahs and leopards for many years.
Distance ca 240 km: about 24 km gravel road, the rest tar road
06.11.2017 | OKONJIMA PLAINS LODGE
The cats are easier to find here. All have a tracking collar and are therefore to locate via radar. It is far from the same as ongave and the real wilderness. But what Africat does here is necessary and correct. We meet leopards and cheetahs - also some Eland antelope and a turtle. Morning departure to the last station near Windhoek - Goche Ganas.
07.11.2017 | OKONJIMA PLAINS LODGE, GOCHE GANAS
I drive back to the B1, where I turn right, to Okahanja and still on the B1 to Windhoek. Through Windhoek on the B1 out and direction Rehoboth. Turn left onto the D1463 until the gate of Week Ganas.
Distance about 270 km: almost everything tar road.
Beautifully laid out lodge with luxurious spa. Big game reserve with the chance to see rhinos, giraffes and many other animals.
Here I stay until 09.11.2017 - enjoy the last days before my return to Germany.
