12. - 14. April 2021 | ZAMBIA - THORNTREE RIVER LODGE
Leaving Berlin the evening before. Depart Johannesburg 09h40 - Flight to Botswana Kasana 11h40.... Upon arrival to Botswana, you will be tested for Covidia on arrival. Pick up and transfer by car to the border crossing into Zambia. The ferry stationed there takes us across the Zambezi River. This is where the necessary visa is issued and we are once again asked to take the Covid test. After a long drive we arrive at the Thorntree River Lodge in the late afternoon. This is a luxury lodge on the banks of the Zambezi River, situated in the second smallest national park in Botswana. Almost all the lodges are empty due to the pandemic, and we are the only guests. That makes us all the happier to have arrived!
We quickly start to plan our stay and possible activities for the day - unfortunately a new test is required for our planned entry into Botswana on Wednesday... so we drive directly to the nearby town of Livingstone and complete the PCR test there. Then by boat on the river into the sunset - past hippopotami and a variety of birds, including a hammerhead bird. The first flash of lightning in the distance, but it stays dry. The rainy season has ended.
Later, around the fire, we get deep into conversation and agree to go to the Victoria Falls at 07:30 the next morning. What a view of the river! Late to bed for the night.
Finally Africa!
We woke up to the sun and a fantastic view of the Zambezi. Throughout the night we could hear the hippos grunting. 07:30 After breakfast we leave for the Victoria Falls - the huge waterfalls between the countries of Zimbabwe and Zambia. During the hike, which takes more than 2 hours, there are always fantastic views directly to the falls - the rising spray soaks all clothes and even the rain protection only helps to a limited degree... at the latest on the bridge nothing stays dry. In waterproof bags we secure our cameras. Returning to the Lodge we pass through Mosi Oa Tunya Park. It is a small, manageable park that is situated right on the banks of the Zambezi - there are no cats here. We see giraffes and many interesting birds - a lesser hen, bee eaters and a purple heron.....surprise at the lodge! Lunch is taken on the river by boating. We watch the wildlife as well as the wonderful food.
In the afternoon we set off to walk and see the few remaining white rhinos (9 in Zambia). Our way to these peaceful animals is cleared by a ranger armed with a machine gun. Afterwards we drive through the park, past giraffes, impalas and many birds to the lodge...dinner by the river. Our test results have come back negative, so nothing stands in the way of our continuing our journey to Botswana. Tonight we have another evening of football together - Bayern Munich vs PSG and then it is off to bed. Late evening visit - great excitement when a hippo makes a foray into the lodge. The alarm clock is set for 5 am.
We get up with the first light of dawn. We are ready for an early morning boat trip on the Zambesi. As the sun rises, we see the first hippos, a small fight for the best sunbathing spot begins and silence returns. For a few minutes we are no longer in Zambian waters as we cross the river to the Zimbabwean side. After a short breakfast, we continue our journey by bush plane to Lynianti Bush Camp in Botswana, close to the Chobe National Park.
14. - 18.04.21 | Lynianti Bush camp
Immediately after landing, we drive to the lodge - a 2-3 hour drive. After a short lunch break, we meet the first elephants and have found a fantastic guide and conversation partner in Essafa, so we stay out in the bush until the early evening. A Verreaux's Eagle Owl stares at us from a tree and we see impala, waterbuck and numerous birds. At a watering hole we see 2 lionesses, one very pregnant, the other younger and inexperienced. The young lioness had lost both of her cubs just a few days before. The group of lions (the pride) is made up of two other male lions. On arrival at the lodge, after dinner, plans are made for the next day's activities. In the darkness the snorting and grunting of nearby hippos and the loud trumpeting of elephants can be heard.
Essi wakes us at 5am - it is still dark outside. We sit down in front of the fire and have a strong cup of coffee to wake us up. With the first light we drive out into the bush into Chobe Park and next to the private part of the Lynianti Area. The sun hits the trees and high grass, creating a fantastic atmosphere. A big old bull elephant comes out of the thicket to say good morning to us. We are on the lookout for the two male territorial lions but have no luck. We continue into the open wetlands where we meet a herd of African buffalo. We stop at a waterhole and watch a large group of hippos. There are about 30 of them, staring at us from the water. On the bank a male hammerhead bird tries his luck with a hippo by climbing onto the back... a fish eagle calls from a nearby tree. We stop for hot tea, watch a woodland kingfisher and see a bat eagle high in the sky. On the way back around midday we pass impala, kudu and waterbuck..
After lunch and a long break we head out again. In the late afternoon we meet a small herd of elephants and see many birds - African green pigeon, fish eagle, small bee-eater, shrikes, crested barbets and many more. The two lionesses took us by surprise but stayed quietly in the shade of the path without being disturbed by us. Again we come across a single bull elephant who keeps us company as the sun sets. On the way back in the dark we hear the alarm calls of the impala and search for the suspected predator with the spotlight. Tomorrow's day is planned around the campfire, followed by dinner.
Another early start - loud lion roars from the two brothers during the night. Even in the early morning, a short roar now and then. We set off in search and try to determine the direction in order to find the older of the two. It's a long drive, as we don't find the tracks of the two immediately. Out of nowhere we hear a loud roar and find the older one lying lazily in the grass, avoiding the rising sun, behind a small bush. It is a handsome, proud lion, about 8-9 years old, with a dark mane. Now and then a longing look in the direction of his brother and a short call. But there is no answer...
We find his younger mate lying on the path, already fast asleep, avoiding the sun in the soft sand. We continue past a hippo pool towards Camp Lynianti. Surprise in the bush - lunch at a small pond. The camp team has set up a table and we eat in the middle of the wilderness. Shortly after our return, a helicopter flight awaits us. After half an hour of observing the animals from above, we land very close to the camp. We spend the afternoon with the male lion and under observation of about 30 hippos, which stare at us from a pool situated in the waterlands and follow us with their eyes. A spitting cobra meanders past us. Back at camp by the fire.
Early departure - Today we will spend the whole day in Savuti/Chobe NP. Savuti is about 2 hours from our camp. This area is very different and is a large open grassland area. there are rocky hills and many waterholes. Here there is a large pride of lions the well known Marsh pride with up to 30 members. The alpha male Sikikama is about 8-9 years old and his son Sekoti (short tail) is establishing his own pride. Soon he will have to stand up to his father. Tornnose also rules here - he is one of Sikikama's uncles. News about the lions of Savuti can be read in MMGI Newspaper.
During the day we meet every single one of these proud lions. Early on we meet Sekosi at a waterhole - together with 4 younger animals. In the background a large herd of elephants is approaching the waterhole directly, so the group of lions gets up and slowly moves towards the shady nearby trees. One of the lionesses has a blind eye. Nearby, hundreds of zebras gather. When the elephants reach the water there is great joy and the big giants play in the water there are now about 30 animals. We decide to take a break not far away and watch the big herd of zebras, the whole horizon is black and white. Passing an old baobab tree we come across a fresh buffalo carcass, close by are the lions including old King Sikikama. Only a short time later we set off for the home camp. On the way we find the tracks of a leopard. We follow the animal deep into the thicket, but despite many alarm calls we cannot find the leopard. With all the new impressions we arrive at the fire late in the evening.
18.04. - 24.04.2021 | Khwai River
Today we continue to the Kwaih River. The bush plane takes off from Lynianti Airstrip at 0940. It is about 2 hours drive - a last goodbye, a single bull elephant looks at us sadly...
In Kwaih we are picked up by our new guide Joe - he drives us through the water channels, past a small village safely to the new Camp Leadwood , which is situated directly on the Khwai. The large part of the river and the surrounding countryside are still overflowing with water, so that many animals will not be easily found here...after a short lunch we go on our first game drive. The landscape is quite different from that in Lynianti - it is much more open and a lot of flooded grassland. Some red lychee antelope, as well as the fastest antelope species, can be seen in the distance. We find the tracks of a leopard and again we are unsuccessful...in the dark on the way back to the lodge we spot 2 hyenas on the road with a spotlight. Joe has made an effort but is by far not as experienced a guide as Essi.
Early start also in Leadwood - at the posh lodge we have a quick breakfast by the open fire in the early hours of the morning. We leave while it is still dark and drive through the nearby village into the bush. It is a much more open country with not quite so dense scrub. Giraffes and an osprey greet us in the watery grassland - we find the first lion lying in a bush. a young male with a budding mane. Of course we also look for a leopard, which has its home here in the area. But we are unsuccessful. Over the radio we get the information that a pack of wild dogs is resting in the middle of the main road. We arrive a short time later and are lucky enough to spend some time with the dogs. After arriving at the lodge, a helicopter awaits us for a scenic flight over the Khwaih River, the eastern Okavango Delta. From above we see the animals from a completely new perspective - the highlight is certainly an amazingly large Nile crocodile. A real monster, about 5 m tall and certainly about 80-100 years old. After lunch we set off for the second excursion of the day - again we try to find the leopard, but again we are unsuccessful. However, we are very lucky to see a Bataleur Eagle. It takes its time and does not fly off immediately. Passing an old hyena burrow we quickly find a place to enjoy the sunset. Back home, dinner and a warm fire await us.
We set off early in the morning - leaving the lodge around 05:30 to drive to the nearby Moremi Reserve. Shortly after leaving, we spot a lioness with two cubs in the first light of day. She is on the hunt - spellbound she watches a small group of waterbuks. The lioness is on her own as the cubs are not yet any help. She does not belong to a lion pride, but is known to be a very experienced hunter and also hunts during the day. This time she is unsuccessful...we accompany the family for a while until we continue towards Moremi. As the water is still very high at this time of year, it is not easy to make progress in the terrain. In Moremi we stop at a group of elephants, but drive on and soon see many vultures sitting in the trees. Nearby is a giraffe carcass - a hyena tries to get the last scraps until the vultures pounce on the bones. We drive back and use the rooms of the lodge for a short break before the midday heat. Soon we set off by single boat - mokoro - and let ourselves be transported through the channels of the delta with an experienced guide. It is very quiet, only the calling of birds and frogs can be heard. Reflections and reflections on the water. An elephant accompanies us a little way, an osprey sits in a tree...a paradise on earth. We are shown the Panged Wood frogs, which are barely visible to the naked eye. Water lilies float on the water...on the way back we drive through the village and shortly after reach the lodge where a traditional evening of singing and food awaits us. A loud trumpeting welcomes us - the elephants are here!
Today we will stay outside all day. Early in the morning we find the tracks of two male lions in the sand. It takes a while but we find them...there are two new lions in the area. The search for a leopard remains unsuccessful...on the way to Martabe Game Reserve the pack of wild dogs lies on the roadside, it is the same pack we have already observed. The dogs are lying in the shade and have visibly eaten something. We drive deeper into the new area and find some elephants and of course a lot of antelopes. Finally we decide to return to the dogs. We watch the waking up and subsequent joyful greeting of the dogs. On the long way home we try to find the leopard again, but we are unsuccessful...
A little later than usual, but still only with the first rays of sunshine, we start towards Moremi - it will be an exceptionally quiet trip. Only a few animals show themselves and we are back at the lodge early and a little disappointed. In the afternoon a new attempt - it is now the fifth day in search of the leopard. Unfortunately we are unsuccessful and will not take any leopard sightings back to Germany....no trace of the beautiful cat can be found. An old bull elephant approaches our car with interest and curiosity and stays with us for a while. We drive past kudus and waterbuks, reedbuks and many birds back to the lodge. Tomorrow we have one last early morning drive ahead of us...then it is time to say goodbye.
The last day - we spend the last drive watching a small pack of wild dogs. There are only three animals, but they give us a beautiful last moment. On the way to the airstrip we meet an old bull elephant who stands in front of us and says goodbye with a deep grumble.
